Always carry 25 USD in your pocket so you may give it to Mexican thieves and not get killed.
WARNING
You might get murdered by gunshot or stabbing during a Mexican robbery if you do not surrender your possessions immediately. This is not a joke.
You might get murdered by gunshot or stabbing during a Mexican robbery if you do not surrender your possessions immediately. This is not a joke.
(Courtesy of M. de la Madrid, C. Salinas, E. Zedillo, V. Fox, F. Calderón, E. Peña, and above all: A.M. López)
Mexico is a gangster’s paradise when it comes to crime. The rate of Mexican crime activity has been up, probably, around 1,000%, since A.M. López Obrador received the Presidency. This is how AMLO's "Cuarta Transformación" or "4T" has begun; with criminals fighting to control the 'plazas', kidnaping people and trafficking drugs all over America with no one out there to stop them.
Let's Take a Moment to Reflect Upon How Horrific Mexico Has Become
Sometimes when you wake up in your nice comfortable (or at least reasonably comfortable) bed in your nice (or at least moderately serviceable) house or apartment here in the United States of America, it is useful to take a moment to reflect upon how fortunate we all are, by comparing ourselves to those in countries that may be our geographic neighbors, but whose state of life is quite different. One good way to do this is simply by taking in this, the very first paragraph from a Washington Post story by William Booth today:
The two most important criminal organizations in Mexico are engaged in all-out war, and the most spectacular battles are being fought for the cameras as the combatants pursue a strategy of intimidation and propaganda by dumping ever greater numbers of headless bodies in public view - the victims most likely innocents.What might that entail, for example? "In the past month alone, in what authorities describe as gruesome version of text messaging, the two criminal groups and their allies deposited 14 headless bodies in front of city hall in the border city of Nuevo Laredo, and hung nine people, including four women, from a bridge in the same city."
Mexico is SO FUCKED UP IT IS STRAIGHT UP INSANE. That's Mexico—THE PLACE WHERE YOU WENT ON VACATION. Now full of piles of headless bodies, everywhere, in the streets. Try, if you can, even for a moment, to, in your mind, move your thoughts from the abstract concept of "Mexican drug war" to the very concrete vision of walking across a bridge and encountering nine dead bodies hanging there. For example.
Just something to reflect upon as you go about your business today.
[WaPo. Photo: AP] - https://gawker.com/5912962/lets-take-a-moment-to-reflect-upon-how-horrific-mexico-has-become
Mexico maelstrom: how the drug violence got so bad
https://www.theguardian.com/world/2017/dec/26/mexico-maelstrom-how-the-drug-violence-got-so-bad
11 years since the government launched a crackdown on cartels,
violence continues, rule of law is elusive and accusations of human
rights abuses abound
by David Agren in Reynosa
by David Agren in Reynosa
She wakes at 6am and readies her son for preschool; then she reviews her social media feeds for news of the latest murders.
Updates come via WhatsApp messages from friends and family: “There was a gun battle on X street”, “They found a body in Y neighbourhood”, “Avoid Z”.
In Mexico today, choosing your route to work can be a matter of life or death, but Sofía compares the daily drill to checking the weather on the way out the door. “It doesn’t rain water here,” she said. “It rains lead.”
It is 11 years since the then president Felipe Calderón launched a militarised crackdown on drug cartels deploying thousands of soldiers and promising an end to the violence and impunity. But the bloodletting continues, the rule of law remains elusive and accusations of human rights abuses by state security forces abound.
All the while, Mexico continues to race past a series a grim milestones: more than 200,000 dead and an estimated 30,000 missing, more than 850 clandestine graves unearthed. This year is set to be the country’s bloodiest since the government started releasing crime figures in 1997, with about 27,000 murders in the past 12 months.
Some of the worst violence in recent years has struck Reynosa and the surrounding state of Tamaulipas, which sits squeezed against the Gulf coast and the US border.
Once in a while, a particularly terrible incident here will make news around the world, such as the murder of Miriam Rodríguez, an activist for families of missing people, who was shot dead in her home on Mother’s Day.
But most crimes are not even reported in the local papers: journalists censor themselves to stay alive and drug cartels dictate press coverage.
“We don’t publish cartel and crime news in order to protect our journalists,” said one local news director, whose media outlet has been attacked by cartel gunmen. Eight journalists were murdered in Mexico in 2017, making it the most dangerous country for the press after Syria.
The information vacuum is filled by social media where bloody photographs of crime scenes and breaking news alerts on cartel shootouts are shared on anonymous accounts.
In Reynosa, violence has become a constant strand in everyday life. Morning commutes are held up by gun battles; movie theatres lock the doors if a shootout erupts during a screening. More than 90% of residents feel unsafe in the city, according to a September survey by the state statistics service.
Signs of the drug war are everywhere: trees and walls along the main boulevard are pockmarked with bullet holes. Drug dealers can be seen loafing on abandoned lots; every so often, rival convoys of gunmen battle on the streets.
Video cameras look down from rooftops; spies are all around. “They have eyes everywhere,” said one woman. “It could be the government or the cartels.”
The violence here first erupted around 2010 when the the Gulf cartel’s armed wing – a group of former soldiers known as Los Zetas – turned on their masters.
Since then, wave after wave of conflict has scorched through the state as rival factions emerge and collapse.
Fighting erupts over trafficking routes and the growing local drug markets, but state forces are also implicated: earlier this month, soldiers killed seven people, including two women, in what was described as a “confrontation”.
Amid the mayhem, ordinary life continues: shopping malls fill with families trying to escape the oppressive heat. Cars full of young people cruise the streets at night, banda music blaring from open windows.
“Life can’t stop. We have to get out and enjoy ourselves a little,” said Alonso de León, a local caterer. But he added: “The problem affecting us in Tamaulipas is the shootouts, this violence – in any other country this would be called terrorism.”
The government bristles at any suggestion that the country is at war. When the International Institute for Strategic Studies ranked Mexico as second-deadliest country in the world – ahead of warzones such as Afghanistan and Yemen – the foreign ministry responded angrily, pointing to higher murder rates in Brazil and Venezuela.
War or not, the bodycount keeps climbing.
And the violence is spreading: tourist areas have seen shootouts and decapitations, and even the capital has seen confrontations with armed groups. Earlier this month, the bodies of six men were found hanging from bridges in the resort city of Los Cabos.
All of which has been disastrous for the image of President Enrique Peña Nieto who took office in 2012 with an ambitious agenda to push through structural reforms and promote Mexico as an emerging economy.
Fighting crime seemed an afterthought.
“He thought that security issues in Mexico were a problem of perception so he embraced a policy of silence,” said Viridiana Ríos, scholar at the Wilson Centre in Washington.
Peña Nieto’s government maintained the military focus of the drug war, and continued to target cartel kingpins. But analysts question the strategy, saying that it shatters larger criminal empires but leaves smaller – often more violent – factions fighting for the spoils.
Breaking up the cartels also has the perverse effect of encouraging crime groups to diversify, said Brian J Phillips, professor at the Centre for Teaching and Research in Economics.
“The new groups are more likely to raise money by kidnapping or extortion since that doesn’t require the logistics of drug trafficking,” he said. “And as long as demand exists in the USA, and supply is in or passing through Mexico, new criminal organisations will appear.”
When the country’s most-wanted crime boss Joaquín “El Chapo” Guzmán was recaptured last year, Peña Nieto tweeted “Mission accomplished” but even that success has not caused any measurable reduction in crime: Guzmán’s extradition to the United States in January triggered a fresh wave of violence in his home state of Sinaloa.
Meanwhile rivals such as the Jalisco New Generation cartel – a fast-growing organisation specialising in methamphetamines and excessive violence – moved in on Sinaloa trafficking territories along the Pacific coast.
And the liberalisation of marijuana laws in some US states has prompted some farmers to switch to opium poppies, prompting fresh conflict around the heroin trade.
But despite the worsening violence, there has been little serious consideration of any fresh approaches. Earlier this month, Andrés Manuel López Obrador – the frontrunner in the 2018 presidential election – was widely condemned for floating a possible amnesty for criminals.
The proposal drew comparisons with the pax mafiosa before more than 70 years of rule by the Institutional Revolutionary party (PRI) ended in 2000, in which politicians turned a blind eye to drug-dealing in return for peace.
“It’s a useless endeavour, given the broken criminal landscape,” said security analyst Jorge Kawas. “There’s no group of leaders who can be summoned to discuss stopping the violence.”
Politicians are nonetheless still perceived as allying themselves with criminals –especially during costly election campaigns.
“Mexico cannot stop dirty money going into the political system,” said Edgardo Buscaglia, an organised crime expert at Columbia University. “That’s the key to understanding why violence has increased in Mexico.”
Such accusations are all too familiar in Tamaulipas, where two of the past three governors have been indicted in US courts on drug and organised crime charges.
Meanwhile, police departments are dilapidated, dispirited, corrupt and underfunded as state and national politicians pass on security responsibilities on the armed forces.
Earlier this month, congress rammed through a controversial security law cementing the role of the military in the drug war – despite mounting accusations of human rights abuses committed by troops and marines.
In Tamaulipas, residents express exasperation with the flailing government response. But few ask too many questions about the violence around them: they just want the killing to end.
“I don’t care about organised crime,” said one woman, known online as Loba, or She-wolf. “They can traffic all the drugs they want so long as they don’t mess with ordinary people.”
Loba is one of the social media activists who report on cartel violence via Twitter and Facebook. It’s a perilous undertaking: at least two citizen journalists in Tamaulipas have been killed, and Loba herself was kidnapped by the Zetas in 2011 and held for 12 days before her family paid a £10,000 ($13,500) ransom.
When asked why she runs such risks, Loba answered: “Perhaps this can save someone from being shot.”
https://www.brookings.edu/research/the-violent-drug-market-in-mexico-and-lessons-from-colombia/
Introduction: The Context and Goals of Counternarcotics Policy in Mexico
The drug-related violence and the breakdown in security in Mexico have escalated to extraordinary levels over the past two years. According to publicly available data, 6,290 people died in Mexico due to drug-related violence in 2008.1 In private, some Mexican officials give a number as high as 9,000 deaths, but even the lower figure is more than the total number of casualties in Iraq during 2008, more than in Afghanistan, and six times more than the average number for a civil war, about 1,000 people per year. During the first eight weeks of 2009, over 1,000 people have already been killed in Mexico.2 In the level of casualties, if not in the type of targets and means, the violence in Mexico is greater even than the violence that plagued Colombia in the 1980s and early 1990s when Colombia went through a similar confrontation between its drug-trafficking organizations (DTOs) and the state.
Even though the majority of those killed are people involved in the drug trade, the violence has come to affect the lives of both ordinary people who do not dare venture out of their houses at night (or even during the day) for fear of getting caught in the cross-fire, and of elites who have become targets of extortion.3 Kidnapping is markedly on the rise. While most of the kidnapping is linked to the drug trade—to intimidate and coerce recruits and involuntary participants to ensure that they deliver promised services—kidnapping for even rather meager pecuniary profits also appears to be growing, indicating a spiral of violence and criminality. Armed robbery has also increased dramatically, along with the murder rates. The cost of violence has become cheap since the state is overwhelmed, the deterrent effect of punishment by law enforcement has declined, and social and cultural restraints on violence have been degraded.
Civil society has come under serious threat with murders of journalists in Mexico among the highest in the world. The law enforcement and judicial apparatus has been similarly threatened with public officials facing the same awful choice that public officials in areas of high crime and violence often face: plata o plomo, i.e., accept a bribe or face murder. Given the existing high levels of corruption in the Mexican law enforcement apparatus, such pressure becomes all the more intense. In some areas of Mexico, the security situation has deteriorated so significantly that there is anecdotal evidence that average Mexicans, not only the upper-class, are leaving Mexico for the United States because of the lack of security in their own country—this despite the economic downturn in the U.S. and the resulting loss of job opportunities north of the border.4 Although most of the violence is highly localized along critical drug smuggling routes, few areas of Mexico are now immune from some drugrelated violence.
The economic costs for Mexico also have been substantial. Mexican states most significantly affected by violence appear to have begun experiencing reduced economic activity in terms of reduced investment, tourism, and the dramatic escalation in transaction costs such as protection rents, ransoms, and costs of bodyguards. Yet it is in the domain of public safety where the drug trade is most pernicious and where the Mexican situation is most serious.
Some of the violence is also spilling across the border to the United States. Border patrol officers are increasingly confronted by drug traffickers with firepower. Perhaps as much as 90% of the firearms used by Mexican drug trafficking organizations5 have been purchased in the United States. Murders and kidnapping of U.S. residents who (or whose relatives) are caught up in the drug trade have increased dramatically. So has the kidnapping of illegal immigrants who, sometimes snatched en masse from coyotes (people smugglers), are held for ransom to be extorted from their relatives in the United States. More and more, coyotes force illegal immigrants to carry drugs (mainly marijuana) as a payment. Because of their involvement in illegality, both groups are likely to significantly underreport abductions and kidnappings. Increasingly, such crime is leaking from border communities deeper into the U.S. border states. The number of kidnappings in Phoenix, Arizona, for example, tripled from 48 in 2004 to 241 in 2008.6 Drug turf wars among the drug trafficking organizations are beginning to occur in major cities in the U.S., such as Dallas, Texas. Still, the violence and criminality on the U.S. side of the border remain relatively low, and nowhere close to their levels in Mexico.
The policy debate about how to address the drug trade and the violence in Mexico frequently conflates three distinct policy issues. Addressing these issues suggest different strategies.
The three distinct policy questions are:
- how to significantly disrupt drug supply to the U.S., reduce consumption of illicit substances in the U.S., and reduce the global drug trade;
- how to reroute drug trafficking from Mexico; and
- how to reduce violence in the drug market in Mexico and suppress crime in Mexico to manageable levels.
Goal Two: Rerouting the Drug Trade from Mexico – Goal Two is extremely difficult to achieve given that the U.S. is such a dominant consumption market globally and for Latin American illicit substances specifically. From the drug trafficking organizations’ perspective, the Mexico border is too strategic to give up. Moreover, the border is long and its desert, mountain, and river terrain too difficult to permit its easy sealing off outside of legal crossings, even with the border fence that is currently under construction. At the same time, the level of flows of goods and people across the border is too high and economically important to permit inspection of the majority of vehicles at legal crossings.
The possibility always exists of a reopening of the Caribbean route through which most drugs were channeled to the United States during the 1980s and early 1990s before the U.S. undertook extensive aerial and maritime interdiction efforts in the Caribbean. The increasing use of semi-submersibles to transport cocaine from Colombia’s shore or Central America’s coast to the United States is an early indication of the DTOs’ resumed interest in the Caribbean route. However, the existing levels of enforcement there and, most significantly, the proximity of the Mexican border with the United States makes the Mexico route too convenient for traffickers to abandon. Furthermore, if such a rerouting through the Caribbean were to take place, it would likely result in increased levels of corruption and violence along the new corridor, displacing the problems from Mexico into the more vulnerable states of Central America and the Caribbean.
Goal Three: Reducing the Level of Violence in Mexico and Suppressing Crime to Manageable Levels – Goal three is where the Mexican state has potentially the greatest ability to influence developments. It is also in this domain where action by the Mexican state is absolutely critical since the provision of public safety is the irreducible function of the state.
Paradoxically, strategies for accomplishing Goals Two and Three may be somewhat contradictory, at least in the short term. A very violent illicit market, as in Mexico today, is bad not only for the legal economy, but also bad for the illegal economy. Persistent fights among the drug trafficking organizations and a lasting violent confrontation between those organizations and the state may well generate a scramble among the DTOs for a more peaceful and less enforced route. But such an outcome would not necessarily enhance public safety in Mexico. On the other hand, a global reduction in demand is critical not only for Goal One, but it will also be of enormous help with Goals Two and Three. Clearly, demand reduction needs to become the centerpiece of U.S. counternarcotics policy both at home and abroad.
However, in the rest of the paper, I will concentrate primarily on Goal Three—reducing violence in Mexico—and on the direct strategy toward accomplishing this goal. I will first describe the illegal drug economy in Mexico today. Second, I will contrast the situation in Mexico with Colombia and with Plan Colombia, to which Mexico is frequently being compared. I will argue that although public policy analyses center comparisons on and draw lessons from Plan Colombia, the better analogy for Mexico is Colombia before Plan Colombia, in the late 1980s and early 1990s. Fourth, I will provide a brief description of the Mexican response and the Mérida Initiative. I will end with recommendations for a new strategy in Mexico.
35 THINGS NO ONE TELLS YOU ABOUT LIVING IN MEXICO
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Before you think about moving to Mexico, whether to one of the big three cities like Guadalajara, Monterrey or Mexico City or a smaller town, there are tons of things to consider – do you speak Spanish? Do you need a visa for Mexico? Will you like the food? What’s the cost of living in Mexico? However, after living here for almost two years now, I can tell you there are plenty of things no one tells you about living in Mexico, that you really should know and consider before you decide to move there. In the spirit of graciously making my fellow would-be-immigrant-in-Mexico’s transition easier, here’s everything weird, wonderful, quirky and even frustrating about Mexican culture and life that nobody thinks to mention when you tell them you’re moving to Mexico.
THINGS NO ONE TELLS YOU ABOUT LIVING IN MEXICO
1. YOU CAN BUY TAMPONS IN MEXICO
This is one of the biggest myths of all that I would like to take a second to debunk right now. Before I moved to Mexico, one thing that I kept hearing was that you can’t buy tampons in Mexico. Honestly, I should have packed a suitcase full of the bloody things according to some people. Howeverrrr, you can most definitely buy tampons here and my vagina concurs with that. They’re not cheap (but where are they cheap?!) and you might only be confronted with pads if you run to a corner shop (a la Oxxo or Seven Eleven) in a period-fuelled panic, but they can most definitely be found.
Bear in mind, I’ve lived in two of the biggest cities in Mexico (Mexico City and Guadalajara), so I can’t speak for smaller pueblos. It’s safe to assume that they will likely be trickier to get your hands on there. Even so, just buy more than you need when you do spot them, rather than wasting your luggage allowance on feminine hygiene products.
2. MEXICANS ARE (MOSTLY) FRIENDLY + HELPFUL
OK, OK, this is actually something that everyone tells you about living in Mexico, but I think in this post-Trump world it’s worth reiterating that Mexicans are not all drug dealers and bad hombres. In fact, most Mexicans (in my white, privileged experience) will go out of the way to help you with whatever compromising situation you find yourself in, whether that’s asking for directions or swapping change with you at the bus stop. However, that brings me on to my next point…
3. …BUT INCAPABLE OF SAYING NO
If you ask for directions and the person you ask has no idea where that place is, rare is the occasion that they’ll straight up tell you that. Instead, they’ll vaguely wave their hand, give a very convoluted response or (and this has actually happened to me) ring their daughter to get the direction from her. In short, Mexicans have a hard time saying no.
This also explains the set response of ‘gracias’ rather than ‘no’ that you’ll hear most people say to street side vendors when they offer up their wares, and perhaps sheds light on the ahorita phenomenon of Mexican culture. For reference, ahorita (right now, literally) can mean anywhere from ‘in a sec’ to ‘absolutely never, lol’.
4. RENTING CAN BE TRICKY
This very much depends where you’re going to be living and what you want your living situation in Mexico to look like, but renting in Mexico can prove problematic. If you want to rent a whole flat for yourself, and then sublet the other rooms (or live alone), you’ll need an aval (guarantor) who’ll be responsible for any missed payments on your behalf. Think of it as a back-up for the landlord if you turn out to be a shitty renter. However, your aval has to fulfil certain requirements and be a Mexican citizen, which is where many recently arrived expats find it difficult to get a foot on the rental ladder. There are companies which are basically like rent-an-aval services but these can prove costly, so it’s worth trying to figure out who your aval could be before you arrive.
On the other hand, if you just want to rent a room you should find the process pretty smooth – you’ll probably be asked to give a month’s rent as deposit (the cost of renting in Mexico is quite affordable for Westerners), but there are generally no formal contracts involved in the process. This can be good or bad depending on how you look at it, and you need to have a certain level of trust in your subletting landlord or lady. However, for temporary stays, it’s perfect.
The website compartodepa.com.mx was a lifesaver for me when I was searching for rooms in Guadalajara.
5. THE BUREAUCRACY IS HORRENDOUS
Is Mexican bureaucracy bad? If you want the short answer, then yes. If you want the long answer, then fuck yes. The Mexican penchant for excessive bureaucracy is well-documented (ha!), so this shouldn’t come as much of a surprise to anyone. Either way, as an expat in Mexico, you are going to have to get used to hearing different things from various government officials at different points in the lunar cycle and depending on what they ate for breakfast that morning. I joke, of course, but it can sometimes feel like that when you’re passed from pillar to post and given different information at each stage.
We’ve all been to immigration with the correct (supposedly) documents, only to be told we need another six copies of this, another four of that and a coffee with two sugars from the Oxxo down the road, thank you very much.
When dealing with Mexican bureaucracy, take more copies in more colours, shapes and sizes than you were told you needed. Check with at least three people RE: what you actually need to bring and make sure you check the opening times for the place you need to be at very carefully, lest you arrive and find it already closed for lunch at two and won’t reopen until next February 30th.
6. YOU CAN WAVE GOODBYE TO DIRECT DEBITS
If you’re renting in Mexico, you’ll be expected to pay your landlord cash in hand. Just like it took the US bloody ages to catch on to chip and pin, it has taken Mexico a good old while to start using direct debits. Even so, the insanely dangerous (wandering about the streets after just withdrawing thousands of pesos isn’t my favourite thing to do) and inconvenient act of paying in cash for everything should still be expected in most places.
When it comes to paying for electric bills, you have to go to the nearest Oxxo and pay there. You (again) can’t pay by card and they’ll charge you a MXN$6.50 handling fee for the pleasure.
7. BANKING TYPICALLY NEEDS TO BE DONE IN PERSON
This is an annoyance more than anything, and I’m of course speaking from my experiences with Santander only – I don’t know how other banks in Mexico operate. Disclaimer aside, with Santander everything has to be done in person – to set up online banking you have to go in person, to transfer money you have to go in person (and you’ll need the CLABE code of whoever you’re transferring money to too). Basically, it’s all just more time spent waiting to do things that could all be sorted online. (See the previous point).
8. YOUR HOME DRIVING LICENCE DOES NOT EQUAL ID
Don’t bother taking your driving licence with you to be used as ID (in official capacities), because it simply won’t be accepted. Instead, you need to use your visa or your passport, and it has to be the real-life original, not a copy.
You do not have to give your actual passport to any police official if they ask you for it – in situations like that, copies should suffice of whatever form of identification they ask of you, and don’t feel pressured into giving them anything else.
9. POLITENESS IS KEY
Mexican Spanish is super polite, sometimes in excess, and you’ll quickly get used to hearing words like ‘mande’ instead of ‘qué’. Trust me, once this enters your vocabulary it’s there for good…even when I switch back to English the odd mande slips out from time to time. As far as the language goes in terms of politeness, Mexico also uses the ustedes form exclusively, so you can forget the odious, tricky to pronounce vosotros conjugation the second you step foot on Mexican soil.
Politeness extends into the culture too though. I’ve witnessed about as many people fighting to sit down on the Mexico City metro as I have fighting to not sit down. Instead, they’ll spend a good 20 seconds in a battle of wills with the other person, offering them the seat, before one of them reluctantly backs down and takes it.
10. PUBLIC TRANSPORT HAS WOMEN + CHILDREN ONLY ZONES
This only applies to the capital, as on Mexico City transportation options (like the Metrobús and Metro) there are women and children only carriages/ sections. They were introduced in an attempt to cut the rate of sexual harassment and assault on public transport, yet there are plenty of men who still regularly flout the rules and hop on them anyway. If you’re a woman (or child) reading this, use them! Similarly, if you’re a man reading this (hi!), don’t be that idiot who uses the women and children’s carriages. They’re there for a reason, so respect that.
Related Post: A Beginner’s Guide to Using the Mexico City Metro
11. GOOD LUCK FINDING BLUTACK
Straight up not available (Editor’s note: OK…apparently you can find ‘white tack’ but I find that to be unbearably sticky). So, if you want to pin posters to your wall, bring a blutack stash from home.
12. TRAVEL CAN BE AFFORDABLE
This one is a controversial point, as it’s coming from a very Western perspective and concept of what is affordable and what isn’t. First of all, let’s take my three-hour round journey to work in Mexico City – I take four buses and two metros and it costs me a grand total of between MXN$24-30 (~£1-1.20). That, by my standards, is very affordable (and Mexico City actually has some of the cheapest public transport in the country), however for locals who potentially earn very little, it could actually be considered pretty expensive. Even so, compared to Monterrey (where a bus journey can run to MXN$12, rather than CDMX’s price of MXN$2) it is definitely far more affordable.
However, when it comes to long distance bus travel, it can actually be far costlier than you were perhaps led to believe before you move to Mexico…but at least the generally comfortable buses and ample leg room make up for that. Mexico doesn’t really dabble in Megabus type coaches.
Related Post: Expectation vs. Reality of Living Abroad
13. BUSES + BABY SHOES GO HAND IN HAND
Baby shoes dangling from the handrails of buses are ubiquitous in Mexico, whether you’re in the capital or the provincias, and I mainly wanted to mention this point because 1) I’m yet to figure out why this happens and 2) I find it super amusing every time I spot a baby shoe just hanging out on public transport.
14. PDA IS OFF THE CHARTS
When I first moved to Mexico, I had a note on my phone with all the things that were surprising to me about the country and PDA was one of them. Honestly, I’ve never seen as much tongue action in real life as I did when I first started using the metro in Mexico City, and I’ve legit seen partners laid on top of one another in public parks. Couples here are really no holds barred when it comes to PDA, and being a slightly repressed and awkward Brit, I was definitely a bit taken aback by it at first. (It’s worth noting that I no longer find this particular cultural quirk surprising. Often a bit gross, yes, but surprising, no.)
15. BULK BUYING IS FAR EASIER + SUPER COMMON
Unlike many other countries, the UK for example, where you need a membership or company card to access bulk buy stores like Costco, in Mexico the bulk buy industry is far more informal. It’s not uncommon to see people hauling huge bin bags full of crisps (not exaggerating) on the metro and you can buy boxes of sweets, such as mazapanes de la rosa from tons of stores. However, for Costco you do still sadly need a membership card.
16. SIMILAR STORES CLUSTER TOGETHER
Want flowers? There’s probably a street for that in the city. Looking for a bridal gown? Go to the top of Chapultepec in Guadalajara. While I still fail to understand how any of these stores make money by clustering around their competitors, it does make shopping easier because everything is handily in one place and I definitely recommend taking a stroll down Calle Donceles in Mexico City, if you’re looking to pick up some used books.
Related Post: Must-Read Books About Mexico
17. BUSES FOLLOW NO RULES
As a general rule, you kind of just have to wing it when it comes to bus travel in Mexico. When I first got to Guadalajara, I didn’t understand how anyone ever got anywhere because there were very few ‘official’ looking bus stops and no information on the routes (there actually is a site that can help you with bus routes in Guadalajara – rutasgdl.com – but it’s pretty tricky to get your head around at first). Basically, once you’ve figured out the bus number you need, and the road it should pass down, just stand on a corner and stick your hand out when you see it approaching – with any luck it’ll stop.
The exception to this confusing bus rule is the RTP service in Mexico City (and possibly in other cities too), which is government run. They do in fact have set bus stops and you’ll be able to tell where they are by looking for the RTP sign on the side of the road.
18. ANTIBIOTICS ARE GIVEN OUT LIKE SWEETS
This is more of a public health warning, if anything, but please don’t always take antibiotics if you’re prescribed them in Mexico. I’ve been to the doctor on a handful of occasions during my time here and I find the attitude to handing out antibiotics is fairly shameful. One time I was given a prescription for them when I had a simple cough and cold. So, don’t always run to the nearest pharmacy and pop them like sweets (even if you’re told to).
Disclaimer: I’m obviously not a doctor and you don’t have to take medical advice from travel bloggers on the internet, but keep the Mexican fascination with antibiotics in mind if you’re planning on moving there. As a sidenote, always ask for the generic brand of whatever you get prescribed as you’ll save a fortune.
19. GPS DON’T EXIST; INSTEAD, GO TO THE PHARMACY
This was something that I found super strange, as a Brit used to the NHS, when I arrived in Mexico. If you get sick, rather than going to the GP or doctor’s office, you instead have to go get a consultation with one of the GPs that have their office attached to the side of a pharmacy. (There are other ways to see a doctor, but this is easily the most common one). They’ll ask you some questions (although they aren’t allowed to touch or examine you, so choose the illness you visit them for wisely), and then they’ll write a prescription if necessary. Odd, but you rarely have to wait weeks for an appointment like in the UK, I guess.
20. YOU WILL LIKELY BE THE CENTRE OF ATTENTION
If you’re tall, black, white, blonde, Asian or redheaded prepare to be stared at a lot. That goes doubly for women. The truth about living in Mexico is that, whether you like it or not, you’ll become the centre of attention in most places, especially buses and metros.
If you want to see some awesome women fighting back against street harassment in Mexico City, check out Las Hijas de Violencia, a female activist duo who sing a song called Sexista Punk and fire confetti guns in their aggressors’ faces.
21. POLLUTION WILL TURN YOUR SNOT BLACK
This one speaks for itself, although I’ve only experienced it in Mexico City. Don’t be alarmed when your snot has a grey tinged hue is basically what I’m saying.
22. SWEATINESS BECOMES THE NORM
Again, this one is obvious. Even in Mexico City, which is not actually all that hot 365 days a year, the metro will up your sweat tolerance within weeks. When I was studying in Cardiff, I used to find it literally unbearable if the temperature reached 16 and I was a bit sticky from the walk to university. In Mexico, sweaty pits are a way of life, and in Chile a temperature of 16 degrees had me wearing a jacket and jumper. And don’t even get me started on the high-waisted jean waistband dampness dilemma…I’ve already said too much.
23. YOU CAN’T DRINK THE TAP WATER
This one is controversial but it’s something that’s worth knowing before you move to Mexico, or even before visiting. While some people do drink the tap water without boiling it off, filtering it or generally faffing with it first, it’s not really advisable. If your stomach is used to it, then you’re unlikely to get sick, but as a newbie it’s best to stick to bottled water. Also, there can be plenty of nasty extras in the tap water in Mexico, ranging from bacteria and parasites to heavy metals, so you’ll probably want to steer clear for reasons going beyond a dicky tummy anyway. Having said all of that, I still drink the tap water as long as I’ve boiled it thoroughly in the kettle first.
The huge bottles of drinking water you see in homes and offices across Mexico are known as garrafones and cost roughly MXN$35 each.
24. MANY BOTTLES IN MEXICO ARE RETORNABLES
It may seem insignificant, but the number of returnable bottles in Mexico is both impressive and baffling. For example, beer bottles (normal sized ones) can’t be returned, so you can chuck them away at the end of the night, but glass coke bottles should most definitely be taken back.
Large beer bottles (caguamas), on the other hand, always have to be returned – in fact, you have to pay a tax on them of anywhere up to ~MXN$10 which you’ll then be refunded once you take it back to the same store you bought it from. Alternatively, you can swap an empty for a new bottle and avoid paying the tax at all.
To get your tax back, you have to have the receipt with you which shows you paid it. Also, many stores and food stalls will have a bottle opener hanging on a string which you can use to pop the lid off your Coke/ beer the very second you buy it.
25. YOU SHOULD CARRY LOOSE CHANGE AT ALL TIMES
Honestly, the way I horde loose change you’d think I have a problem, but it’s such a commodity to have a ton of one and two peso coins kicking around your purse that I get really angsty when I have to spend it. The ubiquitous Oxxos claim to never have change, which I just think is a straight up lie, and you need to pay with exact coins on the RTP buses in Mexico City, although it also helps to have close to the exact change on any other bus too. (Don’t be like me and pay with a MXN$50 note in times of desperation, because the driver will not be your biggest fan). For tipping toilet attendants and bag packers in the supermarket, you want to have a few pesos to hand, which brings me to my next point…
26. YOU SHOULD ALWAYS TIP SOME PEOPLE
It’s common decency, by Mexico standards anyway, to tip roughly MXN$10 to your takeout food delivery driver, around MXN$3 to your bag packer in the supermarket and at least 10% on sit down restaurant bills, whether you ate tacos or a fancy schmancy three course meal. I’ve never tipped taxi drivers, but you should really give something to the ushers who show you to your seats at football games or concerts.
27. YOU CAN’T FLUSH YOUR TOILET PAPER
No, really, don’t flush it. Just throw it in to the bin at the side of the toilet and have done with it.
If you’re planning on living in Mexico and have to invest in a good ol’ toilet paper bin for your bathroom, I highly recommend buying the vanilla scented bin bags that they sell in Soriana, as they’ll make everything smell fresher.
28. NO PICA IS A STRAIGHT-UP LIE
You’ll learn eventually, but if you’re not good with spice, don’t take anyone’s assurances that ‘no pica’ at face value, because you’re the one who has to deal with the consequences. Equally, get used to being offered the mildest sauce available if you’re white. I can’t tell you the amount of times I’ve been asked if people in the UK like spicy food and whether we eat chili (although now I’m thinking about it, that last one might have been an albur…).
Dab the potentially potent sauce on your hand first and give it a quick try before slathering it all over your meal.
29. MILITARY + POLICE PRESENCE IS VERY COMMON
I was surprised by the amount of police officers there were around the city and on major highways, literally anytime of the day or night, when I first came to Mexico and I think it is generally quite a shocking thing. I’m not talking just normal, uniformed police officers either, I’m talking heavily armed officers and pick-up trucks full of khaki-wearing military members too.
While some people see this police presence (which is actually 1:100 residents) as reassuring, many people who live in Mexico will tell you that quite often police are the ones involved in a lot of corruption, drugs and kidnapping cases and may see their constant presence in a very different light.
30. MOVING METRO MAKEUP APPLICATION IS IMPRESSIVE
Everywhere I’ve been in Mexico, I’ve seen women applying makeup on public transport, from your bog-standard lick of lipstick to some honestly impressive liquid eyeliner application. Believe me, many women step off the metro looking entirely more refreshed than when they got on (disclaimer: I am not one of them). Actually, I tried to put mascara on on the metro for the first time today and it is so much harder than I ever imagined. Props to all the Mexican women who do that shit daily.
Keep your eyes peeled for the women using spoons as eyelash curlers. Honestly, it’s genius.
31. SEATBELTS ARE (KIND OF) OPTIONAL
This is another controversial point, but seatbelt use in Mexico is so much lower (read: usually non-existent) in comparison to seatbelt use in the UK. I wouldn’t dream of not wearing one at home, but when I’m in Mexico it literally never even crosses my mind to wear one. In fact, only once has a taxi driver asked me to put one on (in Mérida, Yucatán) and the only other times I’ve used them are when friends give me lifts.
You can be fined for not wearing a seatbelt though, so even though their usage might not be that common, take care if you decide not to clunk, click with every trip.
32. YOU’LL BE LUCKY IF YOUR POST ARRIVES
If you want some treats from home, take them with you, because the Mexican postal service is not all that reliable. I was lucky enough to receive my parcel without problems, albeit it two months late, but other expats I know in Mexico haven’t been so lucky – my housemate had her parcel held by customs and had to pay a sugar tax on the contents (which struck us both as absolute invented bullshit, because my chocolate bar laden box made it through without a hitch), and parcels I sent to my boyfriend when I was in the UK just never arrived.
33. PUBLIC TRANSPORT + RAIN DON’T MIX
Mexico, contrary to popular belief, does have rain. In fact, it has a very well-established rainy season between the months of April and September and the roads are notoriously bad when it comes to flooding. You know how Brits (in the south) don’t deal with a light dusting of snow that well? You know, they close schools and newspaper headlines scream out at us that it’s snowing as if we can’t see that for ourselves. Well, that’s what happens with rain in Mexico. The metro is slower than ever, buses are packed with people who all smell like wet dog and everyone huddles in stores for shelter rather than just get wet. It’s a disaster.
34. YOU CAN BUY LOOSE CIGARETTES
Social smoking just becomes that much easier when loose cigarettes are sold by street vendors, from stalls and in bars all across the country. While this is technically not allowed in Mexico, it still happens, so prepare for that temptation if you’re planning on moving to Mexico.
They still sell the clicky menthol cigarettes in Mexico, the type which everyone knows is the gateway cigarette.
35. YOU WON’T WANT TO LIVE ANYWHERE ELSE AGAIN
This is perhaps one of the most dangerous things no one tells you about living in Mexico – you’ll never want to leave! If you’re anything like me anyway, you’ll fall head over heels with the country and people (in more ways than one) and probably won’t want to live anywhere else again.
If you want to read more things no one tells you about living in Mexico, click here. Alternatively, check out my Quick + Dirty Insider Guide to the Best Neighbourhoods in Mexico City.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rz6t2FEablA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rz6t2FEablA